Amos Grant

How to Prevent Costly Bathroom Plumbing Repairs

Wouldn’t it be nice if you can do away with costly plumbing repairs, especially in the bathroom?  Because it is one of the most used rooms in any home, it is not surprising that many plumbing breakdowns happen in the bathroom.  Unfortunately, these plumbing problems are often left unattended until the damage has already become extensive.  Here are some ways that you can prevent costly repairs with your bathroom plumbing.
ShowerheadsShower Head

One of the most common problems experienced with showerheads is that the small holes are normally clogged with debris and mineral deposits coming from the water supply.  Very few homeowners make it a practice to clean the showerhead to maintain the efficiency of their shower system.
When these small holes are clogged, there will be reduced water pressure making your bathing experience less enjoyable.  If you want to steer clear from costly repairs or buy a new one for about $22, then you have to practice proper maintenance.
Periodically remove the showerhead, soak it in a plastic bag with vinegar, and leave it overnight.  This makes removal of lime scale buildup by brushing a lot easier.  To effectively washout vinegar traces, rinse the showerhead under running water for a couple of minutes.  You can also attach it and let the shower run until all traces of vinegar is gone.
Bathroom FaucetsBathroom Sink Faucets

Nothing beats regularly checking the performance of your bathroom faucets.  This allows you to catch early on any potential problems that may be developing.  Start by turning on the faucet to check the water flow and at the same time observe any leaks.
If you observe reduced water pressure, then the potential cause of the problem may be an obstructed pipe, a clogged aerator, or a frozen pipe.  You can easily buy an aerator for $2, but unclogging may cost you more depending on how you want to deal with the problem.  You may need to call for professional help to deal with frozen pipes.
The important thing is to understand the causes of the problem so that you are not forced to rely on expensive solutions.
Pipe Flushing and InsulationInsulating pipes

Insulating pipes is one way to prevent the earlier problem of frozen pipes.  Normally, during cold weather exposed areas of plumbing become susceptible to freezing.  Using pipe insulation is a cheaper remedy than dealing with frozen pipes.  At the cost of about $2 per 6 feet of foam, the investment would be well worth it as it also reduces potential heat loss.
In case you did not know, frozen pipes can put unnecessary pressure on your home plumbing and may lead to bursting of pipes.  This in turn will cause property damage and other hazards, especially if the water reaches electrical circuits.
Pipe flushing on the other hand will help you ensure that the possibility of sewage backflow is greatly reduced.  Regularly flushing pipes, especially seldom used lines, helps to keep them free from obstruction.  You can do this by pouring water down the drain periodically.  This practice also helps to keep the trap filled.  Having your pipes unclogged will set you back about $124 to $275 depending on how serious the problem is.
Plumbing InspectionPlumbing Inspection

The average cost of plumbing inspection is around $266 to $369 based on the area where you live and the extent of plumbing to be checked.  Although you may see it as an additional expense, the reality is that this is one of the best ways that you can save yourself from costly repairs, not only in the bathroom, but practically in any part of your home.
This inspection helps identify potential weaknesses in your home plumbing system, including plumbing fixtures and appliances that may contribute to unnecessary water consumption and excessive water bills.
If you follow all of these tips, there is no doubt that you can save yourself a lot of money from repairs as well as the irritation it brings.
By Admin

Solving the Tree Roots Problems

When you look at tree roots you often think how fragile they are and that they can easily break at a moment’s notice.  However, are you aware that these so called “fragile” roots can cause tremendous damage and headache for you once they get into your sewer system?  Yes, these roots can grow into huge proportions making them very strong and resilient.  As the roots grow, the more damage they can cause unless the problem is addressed.

Going Into the Sewer

Trees and shrubs go into the sewer to satisfy their thirst.  The small feeder roots search not only for nutrients in the soil, but also water.  When water is found, the roots will begin to sip it and pump it back to the tree where it is put to good use.  As far as water source is concerned, old sewer pipelines become very attractive.
But how do they get into the sewer line?  Old pipelines were usually made of iron, clay, clay, and other similarly imperfect materials.  When these materials are joined together, the sections are secured to prevent the tree roots from gaining entry.  A male and a female end makes up one section.  For concrete and clay, tar pitch and similar materials are used for sealing the joints.
If there is ample sealing, how can the tree roots enter the sewer system?  The reason is that these seals are never designed to last forever.  When they fail, and they eventually will, the small feeder roots will find the cracks and successfully gain entry into the sewer system where there is ample supply of nutrients and water to feed the trees.

The Problem with Growth

The threat from tree roots begins to be real when growth occurs.  As more nutrient and water is sucked up by the feeder roots, they become a vital component for the life of the tree.  The nutrients from the wastewater in the sewer system act as a fertilizer allowing not only the tree, but also its roots to grow.
You can imagine how this growth will eventually put a strain on the limited diameter of the pipeline.  At some point the materials will begin to break as they have also been weakened by age.  Have you seen tree roots push up sections of sidewalks?  This is how powerful tree roots can become as they begin to grow.  Can you imagine how much pressure these roots can exert to push up sidewalks?
The pressure is gradual and the holes increase over time.  With the holes getting bigger, more water is sent to the surrounding soil resulting in erosion and loose dirt.  The more this happens, the more the pipeline is weakened resulting in semi-connected sections that give more opportunity for other roots to infiltrate and cause more damage.  To compound the problem, the presence of the roots impede the movement of sewage trapping other waste in the pipeline and causing more clogging.

Answering the Challenge

The whole scenario is not as hopeless as it is painted.  The developments in plumbing technology have made it possible to cut through the tree roots to restore the flow and efficiency of the sewer system.  The younger the tree roots the easier they can be cut, but this does not mean that older roots would be hopeless; just more challenging.
The problem becomes aggravated once the roots begin to mass up.  This is why it is important to deal with this type of problem at the onset.  Another thing to consider is that when the roots have massed up, the likelihood of the pipe sections being misaligned and completely damaged is very real.
What happens next?  Your sewage will have nowhere to go but back up into your home where it will use the sink, bathtub, and any other possible drain line to backup.  Moreover, since the seal of the system has been broken, contaminating the surrounding soil becomes an environmental concern.
To properly deal with this problem, annual sewer cleaning is highly recommended.  This not only keeps homeowners abreast of any root infestation, but helps to deal with the threat before any real damage occurs.  Removing root penetrations can be easily done with rotating cables fitted with sharp blades at the end.
The threat from tree roots is very real and you would need the services of a professional valley glen plumbing service to deal with it properly.
By Admin

Cost of Repairing of Faucets

We are all familiar with the dripping faucet in the kitchen, bathroom, or laundry area.  However, did you know that there are different problems that you can encounter with faucets that necessitate repair?  Despite seemingly complex, the anatomy of the faucet is fairly simple with majority of the problems isolated to worn out washers, O-rings, valves, or stems.  Usually replacing any of these components will eliminate the problem.  Let’s take a look at the cost of repairing different faucet problems.

Types of Faucet Problems

Broken faucets are frustrating and inconvenient at times. But, understanding what type of problem you are facing with your faucet makes it easier to repair.

Clogged – the common culprit of clogged faucets is mineral deposits that accumulate after some time.  Usually this problem reduces water pressure and the efficiency of the faucet.  Often, the clogging can damage parts of the faucet like screens and O-rings.  Repairing this type of problem can cost you around $75 to $144 depending on the kind of obstruction.

Leaking – one of the most common type of faucet problem, you would normally encounter a slow drip coming from the spout or observe water that is seeping from the base.  The leak will affect not only the faucet, but also damage fixtures, which will result in extensive repairs.  The cost of repair will be about $80 to $160 subject to the supplies needed.

Noisy – there are different reasons why a faucet can become noisy when turned on.  The type of noise produced by the faucet will help plumbers identify the problem.  Sometimes the noise can be caused by a damaged washer or cracked faucet assembly.  The cost is about $83 to $150 on the average.

Loose – components of the faucet that can come loose is either the assembly or the faucet.  Tightening these components would usually solve the problem, but extensive wear and tear may need professional repair.  Parts and labor can cost about $71 to $137.  However, check if replacing the faucet would be a better option for you.

Broken – breaks on the faucet would definitely result in leaks and other operational problems and cause more damaging issues.  This type of problem would usually need a faucet replacement depending on the severity of the crack.  Repairs can cost around $86 to $166.

O-ring Replacements

In most modern faucets, one of the most common component that needs replacement is the O-ring.  There are different techniques in replacing O-rings, and being familiar with the various types can make repair a lot easier.

Gland – used to create a seal, you can cut the visible part of the damaged O-ring and replaced.  The spindle as well as the valve body must be turned in opposite directions to access the damaged O-ring.

Spout – located at the base, you would need to remove the grub screw located at the back before you can lift the spout and access the O-ring.  Make sure to align the market to the groove found on the faucet body when you reassemble it.

Gland Packing – this is normally found in older faucet models.  You may have to remove the circlip to access the O-ring.  Use plumber’s putty to seal the leak or Teflon for better result. 
Replacing O-rings to repair faucets normally do not cost much.  Usually, you can buy replacement O-rings priced anywhere from $1.79 to $6.43 each depending on the type and brand of your faucet.

Reseat Faucets

Reseat Faucet
Sometimes, the only way to repair dripping faucets is to reseat it.  In order to do this, you would need a valve-seat wrench, which costs about $9.89 on the average.  Seat replacement is not always possible that is why the most common solution is to reseat the faucet using a reseating tool.
This must be done cautiously in order to avoid damaging the thread of the valve.  Turn the handle of the reseating tool slowly so that it will slowly grind the surface until it becomes smooth.  Reassemble the faucet once the valve has been replaced.
These techniques will help you fix common problems with faucets at minimal cost.
By Admin

Leaking Pipes Tips: Fix Clogged Sinks

Obstacles in the drain line consistently cause lethargic drains. You frequently can mend them by scaling to the roofing, because that is where the port openings are, even though it may appear counterintuitive. The atmosphere can not get into the drains, and the hoover created by running water can slow it down or discontinue it completely when the ports get obstructed. Not one of this has to occur because cleaning the ports is a routine maintenance job. Establish a ladder in order to scale on the roofing. Be sure the ladder's feet are securely put on the level earth as well as the top goes 3 feet above the roof line. Brace the ladder by fastening the lower part using a rope to stop the feet from slipping away. Tie the rope to an eye hook or a veranda column screwed into the base.

You will want the screwdriver to unscrew the vent, in case it has a cover. The objective of the garden hose would be to spray water into the port. Typically, that is all you will have to do to clear it. Scrutinize the port opening for obstacles. Occasionally leaves and debris can accumulate there, and atmosphere circulation can be restored by you by clearing obstructions. Place the nozzle to "jet" or "total" and spray right into the vent opening if there are not any observable obstacles. The water will most likely clear debris that collected in the line. When there's a big blockage, including years of debris or an animal or fowl that expired there and crawled in the ports, water might fill the conduit and back from the opening. In this instance, you will require a more competitive approach to eliminate the blockage." Fit the head into the port opening and feed in the cable until the blockage is encountered by you. Crank the handle. Water begins to drain when you're successful. Now, retract the auger. The debris will most likely come with this. Until you are certain spray water into the port opening it will not back up.
The great news is the fact that the leaking pipes supply a hint about the place of the flow -- it has to be passed the trap. The repair isn't easy, but it is going to be dirty. Put a bucket below the sink to get water and unscrew the nuts joining the P-trap to the sink tailpiece, that is the wall drain with flexible pliers, and also the conduit going down from the drain or the garbage disposal. Pull on the strap off tailpiece or the garbage disposal then pull it off the wall drain. Turn the trap down and empty the water into the pail, then set the trap. Excavate using a screwdriver in the wall drains. Clogs in many cases are situated close to the point where the pipe bends down, which might be just a couple of inches from the opening. If so, you should have the ability to clear it. Snake the drain using a pipes auger in the event you can not discover any obstructions near the opening. Prepare to replace the P- trap you are confident the drain is clear. Scrutinize the way out of tailpiece or the garbage disposal and pull out any debris you find there.
Fit the trap inlet across the disposal or tailpiece wall socket, tighten the nut as possible by hand and slide the compression nut down to match it. Tighten each of the nuts on the trap, for example, swivel nut in the middle, with flexible pliers. If any flows that are fitting, tighten it more. Toothpaste hair and solvent impurities can develop in PVC channel over time, inducing drains entirely stop up or to drain. Plastic PVC pipes possess the edge of existing corrosion-proof, however, they might be overly fragile for unpleasant biochemical conduit cleanser. It's possible for you to keep a drain that is clear and keep clogs that are serious with a couple, common household things that are natural.
Plug the sink's or the passage breaking with the remnant of the tub. whenever unblocking a bathtub draining, switch and appoint the bath with 2 bit of liquid.
Cover with all the entrance of the plunger. Proceed to another measure in case the channel is clogged. Remove the cleanout plug of the sink drain (hexagon or the square -shaped stopper positioned in the bottom of the conduit fold) with an adaptable tug or eliminate the overflow cover of the tub. In the event you are operating on a bowl, put a bucket below the cleanout connection already lifting everything that may befall from the conduit to be caught by it. Remove captured in the coils linked to the overflow cover of the tub or the sink's trap. Replace the overflow or plug cover. In case the sewer is clogged, proceed to another measure following replacing the overflow or plug cover. Immediately stop up the drain using a wiper to stop the confusion from happening behind upward. Permit the incorporation to remain down in the sewer for half an hour. Remove from the drain and pour the boiling water down the drain. Proceed to another measure in case the drain is clogged. Line the turn to push the clog out draw the reptile following up within the drain.
By Admin

Troubleshoot Under the Slab of Leaking Wall

There is a slab flow among the worst plumbing difficulties a homeowner can have. These flows could happen for weeks or months before they can be detected and are quite hard to find. If left undiscovered for overly long, a slab flow can result in damage to the base of a house as well as the house itself. It's crucial that you discover and fix the flow as rapidly as possible to prevent such damage. Copper conduit used under concrete slab bases is a bendable and soft metal, making it prone to folds and kinks; these are weak points where flows can form. Earth movement can cause ultimate flows and conduit wear. Water pressure and electrolysis can cause pipe corrosion. A copper pipe not sleeved, or sleeved in any way, coming up through a base will wear through.

All these factors, individually or combined, may induce a copper conduit to start leaking in the earth under a slab base. 
To discover in the event that you read the water meter and have a water flow under your slab basis, switch off all faucets in the home. Examine the meter an hour afterwards. When a change is in the amounts, you might have a flow. To discover a leak, listen for the sound of running water below the slab. Feel for hot or cold spots on cement or the flooring to find a cold or hot water flow. A hot spot is more easy to find. Search for fractures and damp divisions in the base. A flow can create the earth to heave up and break your base, resulting in potential and moisture mould damage. Electronic amplification equipment might be utilized to discover a leak. Using this gear may necessitate hiring a trained technician. Any flooring over the slab must be eliminated once the region of the flow is found. The cement slab must be broken right up in the region of the leak and typically is 4 to 6 inches thick. The hole broken in the base ought to be just big enough to work.wall
Switch off the water supply following the leak is discovered. The water must be turned off in the road in case the flow is before the key water shut-off valve to the home. Make sure you completely clean both ends of the conduit in the earth with plumber's sandpaper. The measure, put in a fresh part of copper with couplings and clean, and solder it. Don't attempt seal or to repair the damaged pipe. The defective segment of copper pipe has to be replaced. Turn on the water and test for leaks after fixing the conduit. Add and pack fresh sand to the region across the flow to replace any that the flow displaced. Repair the hole in the base with cement that is new. A building's base gives a strong stage for the outdoor walls that are supporting to hold on. A particular slab may be issued above the earth and the base to provide sound interior woodwork. Copper pipes bend beneath the base or slab can increase flows over future that squander lots of water and could weaken the structure. Flows under a concrete slab or a base wall are the hardest reach to see and fix.
You may have to switch some cement to reach the conduit. You may make use of an electric jackhammer or a strong caustic saw; both may be leased from tool leasing businesses. The base below the partition will probably be an added 8 inches. Prevent additional destroy the conduits by striking them with the device. channel out little rocks around the conduit or the soil and reveal the flow source. You may have to request the district to switch beneath the pool in the road valve in case the flow is before the primary shutoff to the home. Use copper tube cutters to prune out the damaged or poor part of the copper conduit. The escape can be repaired by you by using copper couplings that are new to connect the brand original end of the conduit to the present conduit and cement them mutually. In a few houses, conduits are looped to various fixtures below the particular flooring already the pavement is discharged. For those who have accessibility, it could be permissible to divide and avoid the leaking pipe and join new pipes which are rerouted completed walls to the many fixtures or overhead. This realignment ought to be handled with experts such as murrieta plumbing who is knowledgeable about the dangers of exposed pipes.

A developing technology for conduit repair that's disruptive to your house is pipe relining. There is a nontoxic epoxy pumped into the home conduits and lines the interior of the conduits, sealing any escapes. This reduced interior diameter nevertheless permits sufficient water flow in many scenarios, although the conduit will lose a bit of a volume due to the depth of the interior repair liner. This technique of repair should be done by a professional with appropriate gear. Finding an interior leak is dismaying, but your house does not automatically signify a basis issue, only because it is on a slab. If the leak around a wall, the odds are great the water is coming from someplace else while it may be related to a cracked slab. The key will be to locate the origin of the flow immediately so that you contact the right professional for the occupation or are able to make your own repairs.
It is advisable to depart away the cover for an hour or two.

Water has a sneaky manner of dripping down -- sometimes where it enters the house. The following suspect ought to be the roof if you have ruled out the water supply system. Brutal UV beams can make rubber port "boots" fragile after a couple of years, leading to fractures that let rain seep into the house. Other suspect areas contain rusted missing shingles and flashing. Water can follow rafters and wall studs to the ground before sleeping outside around a wall. In the event that the leak was found by you after a recent rain, assess the loft to find out in case you locate damp rafters, joists or insulating material, which will suggest the water is coming from the roofing. The leak may be an issue with the drain of that fixture in case it worsens after use of a special fixture like a sink or dishwasher. In case you must remove a bath or shower, the trap that lies below still is not inaccessible. Significant rains and water that is pooling throughout the outside of the slab can cause the structural framing of the house as well as leakage between the slab. The lawn should slope away and down from the foundation to motivate rain to run away from the house. In case the slab shifted from soil motion or quake process, there's an opportunity it snapped the main drain. In case the water that is leaking has a putrid odor, it might be coming from a sewer drain. Fixing this form of flow takes a plumbing contractor who specializes in repair and slab leak detection. Detection might include using infrared technology or a camera. Breaking out a part of the slab may be crucial although the contractor might make repairs by tunneling below the slab.
By Admin

How to Setup Shower Head Pipe Neck & Sleeve

You can briefly stop a water flow in a metal conduit with epoxy putty although it's not advocated by murrieta plumbers, and it does not work for plastic conduits. At least two distinct brands available on the marketplace -- JB Weld and Harvey's Epoxy Putty -- function equally well for the purposes of preventing flows. Both are successful for blocking little flows in copper and galvanized steel conduit and stick finest to dry surfaces. The need time and- they can not resist any pressure from the flow, and while they're soft. 
Switch off the water to the conduit together with the flow and open two faucets on the line. Among the faucets ought to be below the flow. The objective of opening the other one would be to let air into the conduit for an entire drainage. Wipe the flow with a dry material and see for water to start leading upwards. Should it, it is not too late to make the repair. Wait until the conduit remains dry after you wipe it. Warm the area throughout the flow using a propane blowtorch to hasten the drying procedure. The heat will turn the water to steam, that will leave through among the faucets that are open. Await the conduit to cool before proceeding. Remove of putty from the stick. See that's has two colours. Knead it with your fingers until the colour is uniform.

Wrap the putty all the way across the conduit, pressing the borders down to fasten them to the conduit and pushing it in the leak. Cover with duct tape to further strengthen it and make it a cohesive unit as opposed to merely a patch. Allow the putty treatment for the time set on the container -- typically about an hour. The repair could be safer in the event you wait. Examine when the repair still leaking, and it, chip off the putty and try repairing the leak with a unique use of putty that is new. The shower wall may appear to be a region that is leakproof, but one place can enable water to leak into the wall and outside to other parts of the house: the shower escutcheon. This component is just the extension cover of the shower knob; it might additionally have notations for hot and cold water options and goes out from the knob for a pleasant aesthetic, determined by the version. Distributing plumber's putty in the escutcheon is an affordable and practical solution to guarantee a leak-free shower. Turn off the water at the valve of the shower. You may have to switch off the house 's major water valve, in case your shower doesn't have an individual shower valve nearby. These valves are usually including an enclosed veranda, in the garage, cellar or a different safe region of your home.

Put a rag on the shower floor in order that the drain is covered by it. This rag will prevent any little things from falling down into the pipes. Remove together with the right screwdriver. Each shower knob has another fastener kind; check before trying to remove it, the fastener kind. Don't remove with an improper tool. Remove on the escutcheon using a screwdriver. Determined by the shower knob maker, there may be two to four screws. Set the screws. Eliminate from the bottom of the escutcheon. Rub on plumber's putty between your hands to make an 8-inch-long tube. The putty must not cover the escutcheon's weep hole at its foundation; it should fill the balance of the interior orifice to stop water leakage." You'll notice putty squeeze out from the sides of the escutcheon. Insert Measure 5 to reattach the screws of the escutcheon. Hand- pull on the extra putty that's observable around the escutcheon away from the wall and lose. Monitor the shower wall. No water should seep down between the wall and the escutcheon.
Conduit sleeves for shower heads in many cases are overlooked by inexperienced installers. Without the sleeve, water can corrode the interior end of the showerhead conduit and seep through the hole in the escutcheon trim. Through time, the threads deteriorate as well as the conduit has to be replaced. You have the shower head kit using a conduit sleeve at many home centres and plumbing accessory shops such as 
murrieta plumbingAlign the tapered end of the conduit sleeve at the end of the shower pipe of a straight-shank segment. Slide the sleeve past the screw threads and on the shank. Get three wrappings of vinyl plumber's tape around the threads in a clockwise way. Tighten it. Push the pipe sleeve and securely against the plumbing fitting in the wall. Wrap a rag around the straight-shank of the conduit to secure the finish. Fit flexible pliers onto the conduit in the rag. Where the shower head attaches rotate the conduit clockwise until the outside, angled end of the conduit is facing down. Remove. Slip the ring-shaped escutcheon trim onto the outside end of the conduit together with the polished side facing out. Rotate the escutcheon as you shove it against the surface of the shower wall and securely onto the outside end of the seal. Done right, the tapered end offers the seal and of the seal fits closely at the hole in the escutcheon.
Wind plumber's tape around the threads at the outside end of the shower pipe as before. Screw the shower head on the conduit clockwise. Shield the fitting in the rear of the shower head together with the rag. The plumber who first called it a shower ""arm"" seemingly did not understand much about physiology, nevertheless and that is the name that stuck. In case your rough-in plumber has done his job, a threaded female is fitting only behind the hole in the wall the drywall or tile installer left for the arm. Roll it in exactly the same way as the threads when you are screwing in the arm so it does not unravel. To get this done, hold the arm so the end you are lining is facing you and roll the tape. So it's straight with respect to that fitting align it, then rotate it clockwise to screw it in. Keep turning until it can not move. Roll a rag around the arm to defend the finish, grasp the rag and keep tightening. Discontinue when the arm is in the proper place and you also do not believe you can make another entire turning.head
By Admin